From here the über-macho treats
include a 236-yard carry over a tidal pool at the 5th to a handkerchief
of fairway, followed immediately by a 661-yard par-five threaded
with waste bunkers and another 600-yarder at the dogleg 11th,
bordering the beach. Indeed, the lovely loop of 11, 12 and 13,
where the course opens up with views of the sharp volcanic peaks
of the Bambous Mountains, is the favourite stretch of one Ryder
Cup prospect, Raphael Jacquelin, who raved eloquently after becoming
the first European tour pro, post Langer, to sample the layout.
High-handicappers wisely disregarding both the championship (blue)
and tournament (white) tees will find some solace in the red boxes
which, while taking the total down to a mere 5,000 yards, are deliberately
dubbed ‘forward’ – rather than ‘ladies’
– in order to appease the many male takers. And there’s
no shame in this (so we’re told), for while the more gentle
angles and carries take the heat off the tee shots, there’s
no hiding from the course’s most intense examination: the
exacting approach shots to eyewateringly small and proudly placed
greens.
Langer’s putting surfaces are mostly refreshingly flat and
relatively straightforward to negotiate – once you’re
on them. But almost every one here is cunningly sited, with the
architect’s obvious obsession with elevated greens ranging
from delicate Dornochstyle run-offs (as at the 1st, 10th, 15th
and 17th) through to precarious citadels (2nd, 3rd, 4th, 8th, 9th
and 11th) that would have graced the mighty PGA West or Kiawah
Island Ocean Course.
While the bump-and-run recovery is largely precluded by the fluffy
Seashore Paspallum grass, Donald Ross and Pete Dye would have admired
Langer’s philosophy of so firmly reinstating the pitching-wedge
as the most important club in the bag.
This time it’s your sense of touch that needs to be aroused.
Perhaps it was down to Langer’s love of links golf, or maybe
a reaction to the soulless, mega-sized surfaces of the many mediocre
resorts that he’s been forced to face on tour.
But whatever club is in your hands, the One&Only
Le Touessrok Golf Course represents an intriguing test of course
management skills, with hole names like Cat And
 |
Mouse and Split Decision betraying Langer’s
own tactical approach to golf. The latter, the par-five 4th,
is the first of several risk/reward options. A bold drive flirting
with the left-hand lake helps to avoid the vertical bank protecting
the right side of the green, but the timid will face a breakwater-length
line of lava eating into the ‘safe’ side of the fairway
at driving distance, beyond which a controversial (semi-hidden)
lake lurks to devour a sliced second shot.
And so the journey continues, with pitches over marshy inlets and
teasing backward-tilting putting surfaces to set up an exhilarating
three-hole finish where, at each, do-or-die drives over the mangroves
will have you quaking in your FootJoys.
It would be trite to say there are 18 signature holes but certainly
two-thirds of them are strikingly memorable, as you move between
the extremes of the steamy, swampy 7th through to the driveable
par-four 14th on the hilly high ground that is almost Gleneagles-with-palm-trees.
Only the following par three, a plain pitch to a tiny green in
a non-descript clearing, is a relatively weak ‘make-up’ hole,
and even this could be readily improved through landscaping.
Along with the island’s deliberately downbeat commercial
façade, the extraordinarily natural feel of course is light
years removed from the overblown, impersonal architecture of so
many modern multi-million dollar developments. This was assisted
by having the financing structured independently of the site, ensuring
that there are no villa projects here – or indeed a building
of any description (apart from the discrete clubhouse) anywhere
to mar the view. This creates another conundrum given that, on
paper at least, this extraordinary course is obviously a commercially
conceived venture affiliated to a luxury hotel chain pitching for
tourist dollars (or Mauritian rupees) in a highly competitive climate.
The mastermind emerges as Sol Kerzner, the force behind South Africa’s
lavish Sun City and the founder of the Million Dollar Golf Challenge.
But here, with his $10 million-dollar challenge (the surprisingly
modest total build cost), and the ultra-upmarket One&Only resort
brand that made it possible, he has moved into a more rarified
atmosphere. The finished project was also, paradoxically, helped
by a protracted planning debate that lasted a full five years before
permission was finally granted and, only then, subject to a string
of environmental conditions. The eco-friendly stipulations protecting
the wetlands, beaches, indigenous trees and, most crucially, banning
the dynamiting of the ubiquitous volcanic lava could have stopped
the project dead in its tracks. But Langer has used this to his
advantage, for example, at the short 3rd, where he boldly sited
the green atop a 20-foot mound of rock that was prevented from
being flattened.
Miss it at your peril. |