| The professional
shop belongs to the Royal Guernsey and is worth a
visit if only to shake hands with the professional,
Norman Wood, a Ryder Cup veteran who famously beat
Lee Trevino in the singles in 1975 and now plays on
the Seniors Tour.
Out on the course, with the wind inevitably whipping
in from the Channel, the last traces of the mainland
are blown away and the therapeutic benefits of a golfing
holiday start to kick in. The sea views and broad
fairways encourage you to breathe deeply and swing
sweetly. But
although links golf is undeniably magical, there are
undoubted dangers lurking among the bumps and hollows
at Royal Guernsey. Some, for example, conceal human
remains. Neolithic man, burdened with cumbersome clubs
and granite balls – and without the benefit
of electric trolleys – evidently didn’t
always make it back to the clubhouse. Clusters of
large stones indicate ancient burial grounds from
which you can take relief without penalty.
Although the greens on links courses are frequently
well-guarded, here their defences are formidable.
Several Martello Towers and a scattering of pill boxes
offer a level of protection rarely encountered on
the mainland. Clearly, Guernsey has borne witness
to several fiercely contested confrontations, not
all which have been fought with woods, irons, putters
and good humour.
There are one or two other hazards you should be aware
of when playing Royal Guernsey. A couple of tee shots
are hit across public roads. The secret of golf is
timing and the trick here is to wait for a suitable
gap in the traffic. In truth, the roads are not very
busy so you shouldn’t be delayed too long. The
other slight problem is people. As the course is laid
out on common land, walkers are entitled to wander
about. In some parts of the world this might be a
recipe for trouble, but in Guernsey it doesn’t
appear to worry anyone.
If
Gatwick to Guernsey is a par-three then Guernsey to
Alderney is a chip and a putt. With
just enough room for four fourballs (assuming the
pilot plays), the three-engined Trislander looks like
aviation’s answer to the Deux Cheveux. With
no in-flight entertainment or stewardesses, the flight
recaptures the romance that has largely disappeared
from modern air travel. Give the pilot goggles and
a sheepskin coat and this 15-minute hop could be re-branded
‘The Biggles Experience’.
Alderney exudes charm, is uniquely different and provides
an attractive alternative for anyone who finds Guernsey
too hectic. Although it measures only three miles
by one-and-a-half miles, because it’s home to
fewer than 2500 inhabitants, there’s plenty
of room for a nine-hole golf course.
To be honest, there are plenty of finer courses about
but few that can provide a warmer welcome or more
unforgettable round. Conditions were fairly benign
the day I played, with just a modest force five howling
over the clifftops. A stricken yacht was towed into
harbour as I three-putted the 6th to confirm my suspicion
that a good round here would more likely get a mention
in the shipping forecast than on the sports’
pages. The Normandy coast is only eight miles away
and can be seen clearly from about half of the holes.
Among other things to look out for are black rabbits
and blonde (yes, blonde), pink-nosed hedgehogs. With
a litre of duty-free whisky only costing a fiver,
pubs staying open from 10am until 12.30am and the
aforementioned spiky creatures only normally seen
at night, it’s easy to be sceptical. Puffins,
guillemots and kittiwakes, however, provide a more
plausible distraction. Whether or not you’re
lucky enough to spot a pink-nosed hedgehog, you’re
unlikely to forget Alderney, the flight over or the
golf course. All provide a refreshing holiday experience
that will live in the memory long after the final
putt has been sunk. Visit
- www.alderney.net
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